A Comfy, Checkered Flannel Duster Jacket: Helen’s Closet Patterns Pona Jacket

I’m not going to lie, I have a thing for jackets and cardigans. Something about this type of garment that has always gotten my style juices excited and flowing. When thinking about new sewing projects, there was one jacket that quickly became a no-brainer to me: the Pona Jacket from popular Indie sewing pattern brand, Helen’s Closet Patterns.

The only reason I held back from sewing a Pona Jacket for so long was finding the perfect fabric to make one in. This versatile, open faced jacket pattern can be made in two different lengths and can be sewn in just about any type of fabric. Seeing the extensive variety of Pona Jackets made by many sewists, and the stylish subtle details that can be easily customized, like the pointed collar, really sets this pattern apart in my mind.

As we’ve been spending more and more time at home, and living in sweatpants (and creeping into loose, maternity-wear for me now,) I envisioned making a long and comfy flannel-like duster jacket as my first iteration of the Pona Jacket. I wanted something lounge-able, yet stylish and upbeat.

I stumbled upon this gorgeous, checkered, cotton flannel online from Mood Fabrics and knew it would be perfect for this project. Luxuriously soft and slightly fuzzy, lightweight but not translucent (perfect, because I am always sweaty and overheating from pregnancy), and super comfy, this fabric was a dream to sew with and was exactly what I had been looking for.

I think the pointed, open-front collar adds such style and elevates an otherwise simple garment. The large, secure front pockets are also a great feature. The sleeves are a bit long for me (short people problems) so I usually cuff them, but for future projects, I will shorten them.

As I was in my 2nd trimester of pregnancy when I made this jacket, I decided to sew a size 2 to ensure nothing was super tight or fit uncomfortably. This pattern is naturally oversized and loose, so I think I could have gotten away with a size 0, but I’m happy with the extra leeway I have for my growing body with the size 2. The fabric I chose also accounts for a looser and less flowy drape. The longer length (Length A) of this jacket was the perfect “duster” jacket length for me, the finished garment measures 30.7 inches long.

This pattern was the first Helen’s Closet pattern I have tried, and I found it to be very easy to follow, especially for beginners. While there are some seemingly more advanced aspects of this pattern, I found it fairly simple to navigate thanks to the straightforward explanations and visuals included. It took me about four days in total to sew, which I still consider to be a quick sewing project. 

I used a PDF pattern version and like with other patterns, it took me more time to print, cut, and piece together than it did for me to actually sew. For a jacket, this pattern doesn’t have too many pieces, nor too many complicated pieces or sewing steps at that. 

I also enjoyed watching Sara’s step-by-step sewing video for some tips with the Pona Jacket. I often watch her simple and beautiful YouTube videos to get a more in-depth look at certain steps of a pattern that are better explained visually and easier to understand in a video. Not only are her tips helpful, her videos very soothing and inspiring to watch!

What I enjoyed most about making the Pona Jacket and I expect would be the same with other patterns from Helen’s Closet, is that I learned SO many new sewing techniques but it felt very effortless and enjoyable. I felt very proud to learn to attach and reinforce pockets using a bar tack stitch, learning how to “stitch in the ditch” to secure the jacket facing to seams, and sewing together an inset collar backing.

Helen’s Closet patterns also integrate some very unique sewing techniques in order to create certain design elements into projects. I found some steps to be surprising and interesting ways to sew, but was really pleased with the final outcome and the learning process. I love how inventive and beautiful this pattern is. The brand also has many “pattern hacks” on their blog, which is exciting to know that there are many ways to easily customize and rework these patterns.

I can’t wait to make another Pona Jacket and to try making something else from Helen’s Closet Patterns! I’m envisioning my next Pona Jacket to be a short version made out of thick linen or a canvas or bull denim for outdoor wear. The next pattern from Helen’s Closet I’d like to try is the Gilbert Top.

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Pattern: Pona Jacket, Helen’s Closet Patterns, $14 USD (PDF)

Fabric:  Italian Heathered Paloma, Dusty Rose and Doeskin Checkered Cotton Flannel, Mood Fabrics

Size made: 2, Length A (long jacket length)

Notions: Stitch Collective x Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics Woven Labels